Painting Armies for Apocalyse

With many people aiming to complete large numbers of troops for Apocalypse finding tips for Speed painting are all the more important.  I’ve just revisited an article I wrote for the ChapterMasters Blog in August last year. I’m pleased to say the models I mentioned below have now been added to my 4th company and I’m now working on a command squad.

Despite my best attempts to exercise self control I’ve been unable to resist some bargains on ebay and the number of unpainted models in my collection has exploded. Those that follow my blog will probably know I spend about as much time painting Ultramarines as I do all my other six or so armies put together. I  find blue to be the best colour to get a good consistent result with, so provides the most satisfaction. Due to snapping up another black reach set -Dreadnought and a hand full of Orks for £12. I’ve almost got enough models to finish of my mostly late Mk7 power armour forth company (at the moment I bulk it our with old Mk6 models with non company markings. I’ve also gained a few more models towards my mostly Mk6 Second Company and early Mk7 3rd company.

There are two ways I can tackle the 30 powered armoured marines on the list. One is The hard way.

One model at a time

  1. Spray black
  2. Paint A dark blue base (mordian, Necron abiss or Kantor blue)
  3. Paint an mid blue on the raised area’s (Ultramirine or Calgar blue)
  4. Paint a mix of mid blue and light blue on the armour edges (Mid blue from above with Space Wolf or Ulthuan Grey)
  5. Paint a fine highlight of light blue/grey on the armour edges (same colours as above with more grey or white in the mix)
  6. Use a blue wash over the armour.
  7. Paint all the other details following similar stages

Then there are a number of easier ways which involve cheating on some of the steps I’m clearly going to take the easy route. The question is which steps can be short cut or skipped with the least impact on the model? I’m going to look at them step by step.

Use a white undercoat skip the dark blue base and wash.

  1. Use a whiteundercoat
  2. Paint an mid blue on the raised area’s (Ultramirine or Calgar blue)
  3. Paint a mix of mid blue and light blue on the armour edges (Mid blue from above with Space Wolf or Ulthuan Grey)
  4. Paint a fine highlight of light blue/grey on the armour edges (same colours as above with more grey or white in the mix).
  5. Paint all the other details following similar stages

These Veterans where all undecorated white and then painted with Ultramarine blue (you can skip undercoats, but only on plastic models. I’ve found that if you can skip the dark base coat if you apply an even lighter two stage highlight that you normally would. The models above have a two stage highlight with Space Wolf Grey as the sencond stage. I’m quite happy with the result but the overall lightness of the models just isn’t grim or dark enough for me.

Use a Spray Gun

Rather than skiping the dark blue stage altogether you can use a spray gun or an air brush to apply the dark blue base. The Mk5 marine in the assault squad below was painted with a spray gun and is indistinguishable from the models around it painted with a brush.

  1. Spray black
  2. Spray dark blue base (mordian, Necron abiss or Kantor blue)
  3. Spray from above only mid blue on the raised area’s (Ultramirine or Calgar blue)
  4. Paint a mix of mid blue and light blue on the armour edges (Mid blue from above with Space Wolf or Ulthuan Grey)
  5. Paint a fine highlight of light blue/grey on the armour edges (same colours as above with more grey or white in the mix)
  6. Use a blue wash over the armour.
  7. Paint all the other details following similar stages

Overbrush

If you don’t have a spray gun, or the money to buy paint and compressed air at the rate it uses it. You can over brush the mid blue over the dark blue. Over brushing is similar to dry bushing, but you want enough paint to cover most of the armour plate with out going in to the armour recesses. You also don’t want to worry about getting into areas of natural shade, under leg plates, under the groan, between the legs, excreta. The Sterngurd below where over brushed with Ultramarine blue

  1. Undercoat black
  2. Base with a dark blue base (mordian, Necron abiss or Kantor blue)
  3. Over brush with mid blue on the raised area’s (Ultramirine or Calgar blue)
  4. Paint a mix of mid blue and light blue on the armour edges (Mid blue from above with Space Wolf or Ulthuan Grey)
  5. Paint a fine highlight of light blue/grey on the armour edges (same colours as above with more grey or white in the mix)
  6. Use a blue wash over the armour.
  7. Paint all the other details following similar stages

Skip the mid blue

Skip the mid blue on the armour plates. I can’t show you a picture of a model where I have done this and not because I haven’t, but because the model ends up looking so dark it looks more like a crimson fist than an Ultramarine and i’ve always ended up going back an repainting the model

 

Skip the mid highlight

  1. Spray black
  2. Paint A dark blue base (mordian, Necron abiss or Kantor blue)
  3. Paint an mid blue on the raised area’s (Ultramirine or Calgar blue)
  4. Paint a fine highlight of light blue/grey on the armour edges (same colours as above with more grey or white in the mix)
  5. Use a blue wash over the armour.
  6. Paint all the other details following similar stages

The veteran above has a single stage of highlight on the blue armour. I’ve been surprised at how little difference this makes. This model doesn’t have many hard edges on the armour plates but the effect has worked just as well on other models. I find the wash becomes all the more important if you skip your mid highlight. You can can make up for it buy applying more highlighting to the details on the model. This is a good trick for shifting the focal point on the model. I generally tend to apply one extra stage of highlight to the helmet to keep this as the focal point.

Skip the fine highlight

  1. Spray black
  2. Paint A dark blue base (mordian, Necron abiss or Kantor blue)
  3. Paint an mid blue on the raised area’s (Ultramirine or Calgar blue)
  4. Paint a mix of mid blue and light blue on the armour edges (Mid blue from above with Space Wolf or Ulthuan Grey)
  5. Use a blue wash over the armour.
  6. Paint all the other details following similar stages

The dregnought has only had a single highlight with a two part Ultramarine one part Space wolf Grey mix. This result I’m not happy with. The model doesn’t look finished and a bit flat.

Skip the wash

  1. Spray black
  2. Paint A dark blue base (mordian, Necron abiss or Kantor blue)
  3. Paint an mid blue on the raised area’s (Ultramirine or Calgar blue)
  4. Paint a mix of mid blue and light blue on the armour edges (Mid blue from above with Space Wolf or Ulthuan Grey)
  5. Paint a fine highlight of light blue/grey on the armour edges (same colours as above with more grey or white in the mix)
  6. Paint all the other details following similar stages

These veterans have not been washed with blue. I find if all the other stages are followed you can get away without the wash. In fact I now regard the wash as an alternative to the mid highlight. You do have to consider the rest of you army though. You can wash you old models to bring them in line but you can’t of course de-wash your old models.

Well there you go. Which result do you like best which stage do you think makes the lest difference to the finished result.

Ben

ChapterMasters.com

News on Sisters of Battle from Enter the Citidel

There was a lot of noise about Sisters of Battle at Enter the Citadel. There’s some good news and some bad news.

Sisters of battle news

The following was reported by a number of sources

According to Jervis Johnson “Every army (including Sisters of Battle) is getting worked on and will be updated in time.”

According to Phil Kelly, the reason why they never got plastic minis was because they couldn’t be plastic moulded by the current process. He also mentioned that there are 3 Citadel Designers who have full SoB armies as their main army. GW don’t intend to remove support for models that they have made

According to Jes Godwin. The sisters, like MkVIII power armour can’t be moulded from a 2 directional press mould. Even with all the computer aided design technology they have now. If the problematic detail and elements are removed or moved the models don’t meet the standards GW now have for their models. Jes wants GW to purchase better technology to overcome this problem, but the sales projects don’t justify it at the moment. 

The indication is they aren’t in line for a codex soon. Phil Kelly has his hand up to doing it, but not until after Imperial Guard…

Other reports suggest the Sisters Codex did get some work done before 6th Edition but the army doesn’t function the way the studio need it to, even with any new units they had in line. So like the Dark Eldar they will have to wait another design cycle or until they are ready…

In short there are no time scales for the Sisters of battle codex, but the nail is not in the coffin yet.

Apocalypse is out – What are the changes?

Apocalypse Book officially hit the shelves today. Based on eye witness accounts what are the changes?

Duration

This hasn’t really changed. The games is still time based, rather than turn based. There is now a suggestion that 12 hours is allocated to a 1 day game. With an hour being allocated to deployment and set up, an hour being allocated to lunch and 30 minutes being allocated to dinner. My gaming group would normally aim to aim to end before a late dinner. The obvious implication is that the more points you play, the less turns you get.

Deployment

There are now 6 deployment methods. This will be a welcome change for my gaming group. There are the obvious ways of playing across the board. There are variations on the size on no man’s land and some semi circle based deployments known as crossroads. In this method each army has 3 deployment zones around the board adjacent to the enemies deployment.  This simulates a number of small battle forming a larger game, similar, but not the same as a linked game.

deloyment

Divine intervention

These are similar to assets but are specific to armies. They are used at a time of the players choosing. Imperial players have an effect called “For the Emperor” which provides fearless and furious charge. Chaos get re-rolls to hit and wound on 1s, Orks get a stomp attack. Dark Eldar Hatred and rage, Tau, Stubbon, Feel no pain (4+) and Counter attach. Tyranids get Preferred enemy and run and shoot in the same turn. Necrons get assimilation will, fearless and reanimation (4+)!

Space Marines and Chaos Space Marines can use their Primarch rule in place of the standard Imperial Divine Intervention. This only impacts the Warlord, although some impact those within 12″ of the warlord. The Ultramarine’s gives split fire, tank hunters, preferred enemy, stealth, fearless and relentless to all those with 12″ of the warlord. The Blood Angel Warlord can change in to a flying monstrous creature!

sons of primarch

Unnatural Disasters

These are events that occur  at a time decided by the GM or are random checked for at the start of turns. The one shown in white dwarf destroyed everything on a 24 x 24 inch area of the game table. These are of course optional for those who don’t like randomness messing up their carefully planed gamed of 40k.

boomba

Missions

There are now 6 missions. Three standard missions and 3 extra in the Armageddon campaign. I will add at this point that the deployment method is not random. Each mission has a predetermined deployment map. The standard missions are a meet grinder, surrounded and spearhead based mission.

Similar to surrounded

map

Formations

This section makes up about 45% of the book. Many of the formations are basically the same. GW have used pictures of models on most of the formation pages as examples. The original book had drawings. Some of the formations have had little tweaks. The Space Marine Battle company now has rhinos as optional but has 3xdreadnoughts included. The formations are now free and the assets have been changed or at least the effects of the assets have been. Players may receive free formations well. Fielding a space marine company but not taking the asset did feel a bit weird in the last version of the game.

Apocalyspe Formation

Assets

As you might expect there has been a major overhauls. Most of the original assets are still there, Vortex Grenade, Camouflage, Flank march (can only be used by a single formation), Mine field, Orbital Strike, Shield Generator,  Replacements which I think was called something else before (brings a formation back). Strategic Redeployment is gone.

vortex

Super Heavy Vehicles

Structure points are gone. Hull points have been listed against each super heavy. Those that aren’t in the book are assume to have 3 hull points for each structure point. Penetrating and glancing hits have the same impact on super heavies but 6s on the damage table cause an extra D3 hull points to be lost.

super heavies

Allies

The allies chart has been made optional, hence GW statement that every army has access to super heavy vehicles. The optional chart states that allies that were considered “come the apocalypse” are now “desperate allies”

Allies

Apocalyse Rules start to leak

Rules from the Apocalypse book are starting to surface. Below are a few of the more important points.

Source: Apocalypse40k

Warhound Titan


Titans

  • Phantom,
  • Revenant.
  • Imperial Reaver
  • Warhound
  • Harridan for tyranids
  • Hierophant Bio-titan.

The imperial Teaver and Warhound are not in the formation section, but are in the book.

 

Strategic asset changes

Flank march is confirmed to only work for a single formation entering from reserve. It works on any table edge.

 

Structure Points

Each Structure point are still worth three Hull points however you only need to count hull points not hull points and structure points.  An explode result on the damage table removes 1+D3 hull points.

Super heavy vehicles are not effected by  shaken, stunned, weapon destroyed or immobilised.

When the last hull point is removed there is a 15″ explosion which is stronger nearest the vehicle and get week every 5″. The intensity of the explosion also varies from strength 2 to strength D; depending on the result of a roll on a D3. This is quite normal  for weapons that use the 15″ apocalypse template.

 

The Destroyer Weapons Table

When a vehicle is hit by a D weapon you on a new table instead. No saves of any kind can be used.

1=  penetrating hit.
2-5= Explode! (Super heavies lose D3+1 hull points)
6= Explode! (Super heavies lose D6+6 hull points)

Against other models (includeding gargantuan creatures)
1 = Shot has no effect
2-5=D3+1 wounds
6 = D6+6 wounds

 

Chapterhouse Studios will appeal Games Workshop trademark infringement ruling

We thought it was all over, but it appears Chapterhouse haven’t given up on defending their models.

Chapter house studios trial

In response to a question on Bell of lost souls about if Chapter House Studios would continue to sell the Techmarine conversion beamer. Nick said “Put that item in the “weird and made no sense” jury rulings, I’m hoping it gets appealed successfully.”

This obviously indicates ChapterHouse intend to appeal the existing ruling, in part at least.

He cites the fact that when Chapter House started selling this Kit, Games Workshop where not selling any conversion beamers. They do now have the forge world kit.

Games Workshop did make a conversion beamer in the rouge trader days. If they sold this in the US, then they should then have a trademark for war games products with the name conversion beamer.

This shouldn’t stop Chapterhouse making something that looks different and given it a different name. Such as the Thunderstrike Missle rack, which is clearly meant to be an alternative to a cyclone missile luncher.

Chapter House Studios Cyclone

Chapter House Studios Cyclone alternative

The Chapterhouse Studios conversion beamer, no longer available for sale.Chapterhouse conversion beamer