New Tactical Squad, mkiii power armour, mkiv, mkv space marine

New Space Marine Tactical Squad – Price Rise Rumours

New Tactical Squad, mkiii power armour, mkiv, mkv space marine

 

I generally like to stay away from rumours, especial those without pictures to back them up. However the discussions around the new space marine tactical squad are getting too exciting.

So just what are the rumours about the new Tactical Squad.

1) The current 10 man box set is being replaced.

2) The new box set will have more old armour styles, but won’t be complete suits of old power armour like Forge World produces.

3) The box will contain all the parts required for the tactical squad’s upgrades.

4) There is a gravitation gun and gravitation pistol included.

What hasn’t been “leaked”

1) How many models are in the new box (5 or 10)?

2) What price  the new box will be?

3) If the devastator squad also getting retired?

4) Will the armour through the ages set also be retired?

5) Will the set provide all the components for sternguard?

I’ve mentioned these last 3 points as Games Workshop love saving shelf space and many of the recent plastic set are designed to make multiple unit types. If old armour and all weapons for the Tactical squad are included that means combi weapons for the sergeant. Of course Combi weapons are all that is needed for a Sternguard squad. If the Sterngaurd are part of the box then it’s not very difficult to picture that it will be a 5 man box set, like the Dire Avengers.

The problem with making it a 5 man set it that there are no other cheep troop choices left for Space Marine players, unless you count the 3 man static pose set or scouts. Where Eldar players have Guardians to make the core of their army, Space Marine players rely on the Tactical Squad for the baulk of troops in their forces. If the Tactical Box Set goes the same way as the Dire Avenger set, the cost of a space marine company is set to almost double.

Given that the Tactical Squad box is the best selling product produced by Games Workshop, they are surly going to have to get something out of redesigning it. That’s got to mean either a price rise, a cost reduction (less models in the box) or more shelf space (3 or more boxes in 1).

I’m personally hoping we will see a new 10 man set with a modest 10% price rise, rather than the bad treatment Eldar players have received.

Ben

Seaker of slanesh

US Games Day 2013 Golden Demon Entries

Pins of war have posted some photos of US Golden Demon entries. While non of these made the finals they are certainly worthy of a 1+.

I’ve included 3 40k related pictures below. A Chaos Space Marine based on a Warrior of Chaos, a Seeker of Slanesh and a Space Marine Diorama which uses one of the new Chapter Master kits as well as on of the old wounded Space Marines. There are more entries from Warhammer Fantasy on pinsofwar

http://pinsofwar.com/7-golden-demon-entries-from-the-us-games-day-2013/

Ben

 

Games Day US 2013 Forge World News and Pictures

Forge World have brought plenty to US Games Day. The Storm Eagle variant has stollen the  show for many, even though it was only a photo (below). There is also what appears to be a heresy landraider with multimelta on the sponsors also visible in the background of this photo.

It appears robots are making a return to 40k. Now called Automatas Robots were used in the great crusade. This may hint the Forge World are looking at going even further into the 40k history. or that there are traitor legions who have decided to return to using outlawed A.I.

Magus Dominus

Magus Dominus

magus Dominus

There is also going to be a new tank half way between a Landraider and Predator call a Sicaran Battle Tank. Presumable this counts as a more heavily armoured Predator.

sicaran battle tank

sicaran battle tank

Iron hands Contemptor

iron hand contemptor

Sons of Horus Command Squad

sons of horus command squad

Assault Squad with Power weapons

hearsay assault squad

 

Games Day USA 2013 News: Forge World Space Marine Fire Raptor

Loken has posted pictures of was is reported to be a new Space Marine Flyer. Intended to be an interceptor gun ship the Fire Raptor is strongly based on the Storm Eagle. It has been equipped with an Avenger Canon and two twin linked Heavy Bolters. The current estimate is it will be available in January 2014.

Source http://apocalypse40k.blogspot.co.uk/2013/07/gamesday-report-new-space-marine-flyer.html

Ben

Space Marine Fire Raptor

Painting Armies for Apocalyse

With many people aiming to complete large numbers of troops for Apocalypse finding tips for Speed painting are all the more important.  I’ve just revisited an article I wrote for the ChapterMasters Blog in August last year. I’m pleased to say the models I mentioned below have now been added to my 4th company and I’m now working on a command squad.

Despite my best attempts to exercise self control I’ve been unable to resist some bargains on ebay and the number of unpainted models in my collection has exploded. Those that follow my blog will probably know I spend about as much time painting Ultramarines as I do all my other six or so armies put together. I  find blue to be the best colour to get a good consistent result with, so provides the most satisfaction. Due to snapping up another black reach set -Dreadnought and a hand full of Orks for £12. I’ve almost got enough models to finish of my mostly late Mk7 power armour forth company (at the moment I bulk it our with old Mk6 models with non company markings. I’ve also gained a few more models towards my mostly Mk6 Second Company and early Mk7 3rd company.

There are two ways I can tackle the 30 powered armoured marines on the list. One is The hard way.

One model at a time

  1. Spray black
  2. Paint A dark blue base (mordian, Necron abiss or Kantor blue)
  3. Paint an mid blue on the raised area’s (Ultramirine or Calgar blue)
  4. Paint a mix of mid blue and light blue on the armour edges (Mid blue from above with Space Wolf or Ulthuan Grey)
  5. Paint a fine highlight of light blue/grey on the armour edges (same colours as above with more grey or white in the mix)
  6. Use a blue wash over the armour.
  7. Paint all the other details following similar stages

Then there are a number of easier ways which involve cheating on some of the steps I’m clearly going to take the easy route. The question is which steps can be short cut or skipped with the least impact on the model? I’m going to look at them step by step.

Use a white undercoat skip the dark blue base and wash.

  1. Use a whiteundercoat
  2. Paint an mid blue on the raised area’s (Ultramirine or Calgar blue)
  3. Paint a mix of mid blue and light blue on the armour edges (Mid blue from above with Space Wolf or Ulthuan Grey)
  4. Paint a fine highlight of light blue/grey on the armour edges (same colours as above with more grey or white in the mix).
  5. Paint all the other details following similar stages

These Veterans where all undecorated white and then painted with Ultramarine blue (you can skip undercoats, but only on plastic models. I’ve found that if you can skip the dark base coat if you apply an even lighter two stage highlight that you normally would. The models above have a two stage highlight with Space Wolf Grey as the sencond stage. I’m quite happy with the result but the overall lightness of the models just isn’t grim or dark enough for me.

Use a Spray Gun

Rather than skiping the dark blue stage altogether you can use a spray gun or an air brush to apply the dark blue base. The Mk5 marine in the assault squad below was painted with a spray gun and is indistinguishable from the models around it painted with a brush.

  1. Spray black
  2. Spray dark blue base (mordian, Necron abiss or Kantor blue)
  3. Spray from above only mid blue on the raised area’s (Ultramirine or Calgar blue)
  4. Paint a mix of mid blue and light blue on the armour edges (Mid blue from above with Space Wolf or Ulthuan Grey)
  5. Paint a fine highlight of light blue/grey on the armour edges (same colours as above with more grey or white in the mix)
  6. Use a blue wash over the armour.
  7. Paint all the other details following similar stages

Overbrush

If you don’t have a spray gun, or the money to buy paint and compressed air at the rate it uses it. You can over brush the mid blue over the dark blue. Over brushing is similar to dry bushing, but you want enough paint to cover most of the armour plate with out going in to the armour recesses. You also don’t want to worry about getting into areas of natural shade, under leg plates, under the groan, between the legs, excreta. The Sterngurd below where over brushed with Ultramarine blue

  1. Undercoat black
  2. Base with a dark blue base (mordian, Necron abiss or Kantor blue)
  3. Over brush with mid blue on the raised area’s (Ultramirine or Calgar blue)
  4. Paint a mix of mid blue and light blue on the armour edges (Mid blue from above with Space Wolf or Ulthuan Grey)
  5. Paint a fine highlight of light blue/grey on the armour edges (same colours as above with more grey or white in the mix)
  6. Use a blue wash over the armour.
  7. Paint all the other details following similar stages

Skip the mid blue

Skip the mid blue on the armour plates. I can’t show you a picture of a model where I have done this and not because I haven’t, but because the model ends up looking so dark it looks more like a crimson fist than an Ultramarine and i’ve always ended up going back an repainting the model

 

Skip the mid highlight

  1. Spray black
  2. Paint A dark blue base (mordian, Necron abiss or Kantor blue)
  3. Paint an mid blue on the raised area’s (Ultramirine or Calgar blue)
  4. Paint a fine highlight of light blue/grey on the armour edges (same colours as above with more grey or white in the mix)
  5. Use a blue wash over the armour.
  6. Paint all the other details following similar stages

The veteran above has a single stage of highlight on the blue armour. I’ve been surprised at how little difference this makes. This model doesn’t have many hard edges on the armour plates but the effect has worked just as well on other models. I find the wash becomes all the more important if you skip your mid highlight. You can can make up for it buy applying more highlighting to the details on the model. This is a good trick for shifting the focal point on the model. I generally tend to apply one extra stage of highlight to the helmet to keep this as the focal point.

Skip the fine highlight

  1. Spray black
  2. Paint A dark blue base (mordian, Necron abiss or Kantor blue)
  3. Paint an mid blue on the raised area’s (Ultramirine or Calgar blue)
  4. Paint a mix of mid blue and light blue on the armour edges (Mid blue from above with Space Wolf or Ulthuan Grey)
  5. Use a blue wash over the armour.
  6. Paint all the other details following similar stages

The dregnought has only had a single highlight with a two part Ultramarine one part Space wolf Grey mix. This result I’m not happy with. The model doesn’t look finished and a bit flat.

Skip the wash

  1. Spray black
  2. Paint A dark blue base (mordian, Necron abiss or Kantor blue)
  3. Paint an mid blue on the raised area’s (Ultramirine or Calgar blue)
  4. Paint a mix of mid blue and light blue on the armour edges (Mid blue from above with Space Wolf or Ulthuan Grey)
  5. Paint a fine highlight of light blue/grey on the armour edges (same colours as above with more grey or white in the mix)
  6. Paint all the other details following similar stages

These veterans have not been washed with blue. I find if all the other stages are followed you can get away without the wash. In fact I now regard the wash as an alternative to the mid highlight. You do have to consider the rest of you army though. You can wash you old models to bring them in line but you can’t of course de-wash your old models.

Well there you go. Which result do you like best which stage do you think makes the lest difference to the finished result.

Ben

ChapterMasters.com